I’ll never forget my first sight of Vice Chocolates’ farmer’s market booth: black and purple, more dark carnival than dark chocolate.
Now here at I-Li Chang Brice’s workshop in a corner brick building near Jack London Square, the chocolate takes on a more innocent air. That is until I-Li says, “Taste the skeleton,” her tattooed arm holding out a bag of dark brown bones.
I chuckle, delighted and unsurprised. With flavors like Violent Heart, Rasgasm, Cherry Bomb and Punk’N, Vice Chocolates is not your grandma’s high-end chocolatier.
“It’s made with Fair-Trade
Venezuelan chocolate, created specially for the True Blood Ball at the
DNA where our band, Bloodwire, played.”
“Now
try the Slayer,” she says, offering a box of flawlessly glossy dark
chocolate bon bons.
“It’s roasted garlic and balsamic vinegar. Vampires
are vulnerable to silver,” she adds, explaining the touch of edible
silver on top. She sold out of both Slayer and Vamp - a blood orange
caramel with cardamom and honey, both ingredients used in the
mummification process.
Chocolate bones? Anti-vampire bon bons? Marketing101 would suggest not targeting your product line to a niche audience who likely thrives more on coffee than caramels. Then again, I-Li’s path during her three years in business has been anything but conventional.
"I come up with flavors that sound
good to me. If people don't like them, oh well!" she smiles.
Her
iconoclastic approach didn’t stop the Fall International Chocolate
Salon judges from awarding Vice with first Place Gold for Best Flavored
Chocolate Bar, Best Truffle, Most Delicious Ingredient Combinations,
Most Artistic Designs and Best Gift Set. Now I-Li is too busy filling
orders to update her website with these wins, let alone her Chocolate
Inclusion Finalist nomination from the Good Food Awards. (The award
ceremony is mid-January.)
Like many “second career” entrepreneurs, I-Li’s life took many turns before her calling as a chocolatier came to light.
At
age 2, I-Li moved with her family from Taiwan to the East Bay, where
her family ran several popular Chinese restaurants. Helping out from an
early age cured I-Li of any desire to work in a food business. Working
two jobs to pay for her education at Cal, she resisted pressure to be a
"doctor or a lawyer" and instead went into information technology.
One
day while listlessly perusing Craigslist for jobs, she clicked over to
search the Food & Beverage category. A part-time chocolate
internship caught her eye. It was serendipity. Literally. After hearing
about I-Li’s affinity for making chai truffles and other confections,
Serendipity Chocolates in Oakland hired her as an intern and trained her
in professional chocolate making.
The
leap into entrepreneurship often follows a major life transition. In
I-Li’s case it was an illness, which required time off work. After
recuperating, I-Li contacted Serendipity - only to learn the company
was shutting down.
"I'd barely started learning, but I was so into it.
Chocolate called out to me."
She decided to take the plunge, using all
her savings to purchase the business’ equipment and start Vice
Chocolates.
She
took the trial by fire approach, seeking some advice from small
business support organizations, but working largely off of instinct and
support from Pete Brydon from Barlovento Chocolates, who operates out of
the same space. Today, she’s continuing to learn while working on a
formal business plan, testing and refining flavors and happily filling
an onslaught of orders.
Vice
Chocolates is highly Oaklandish.
“I'm proud to be in Oakland and want
to stay here,” I-Li says, not only because of her loyal farmer’s market
following. "I'd love to have a shop someday. Staying local makes my
chocolate more special.”
The
active artisan food scene is an added bonus. “It’s fun to collaborate
with other local producers for ingredients,” she enthuses. “The 'Lucky'
truffle has Linden Street Brewery's Black Lager Beer and I can’t wait to
collaborate with other locals.”
You’ll
find I-Li’s Vice Chocolates booth most Sundays at the Temescal Farmer’s
Market in Oakland. Her chocolate is available in a few stores around
the Bay Area such as the Star Grocery, Pasta Shop and Draeger's. You can find them online at www.vicechocolates.com.
Let your priorities guide your strategy. Themes
of quality, freshness and perfection — shared by most successful
chocolatiers — are at the top of I-Li’s list. She’s accepted that
distributing to retailers outside the Bay Area may not happen.
“I want
to know that what people are eating is just the way I intended.” she
says. Having longer shelf-life chocolate bars expands her options for
selling at retailers, and the online store lets her get fresh chocolates
to customers right away.
Commit to your brand. As
a small business, you need to feel good about your branding. If
expressing yourself is a priority, as with many artisans, don’t hold
back. In the words of Vice Chocolates: “So go on ... just give in.” If
growing worldwide is the goal, re-think and test how well your brand is
received by potential customers, both consumers and wholesale.
Be online.
You may be a one person show for longer than you think. Getting your
e-commerce set up and/or joining online marketplaces like Foodzie and
Etsy will prepare you for any major press or awards that come your way.
Once you get into production, you’ll likely find yourself with barely
time to eat let alone set up your web presence.
Some things I-Li wishes she’d known before:
Get a business loan upfront rather than spending your own money and credit.
When you try to get a loan they ask what industry experience you have.
"It's ironic since in the beginning I didn't have experience. Yet now
that I've spent my savings and racked up credit card debt to fund the
business, it's hard to get a loan." (A recent Business Week article
offers a few creative funding ideas as well.)
Photos and video by Susie Wyshak.
Great post, Susie. I really enjoyed the start-up tips.